Two years in Texas

October 3rd, 2009 was the day I crossed the state line.

I never thought I'd move to Texas, but I’m sure glad I did. This place has surprised me in many wonderful ways. So, here are just a few of the things I’ve learned about this great state since I relocated from the west coast:

Disclaimer: A good chunk of this list is specific to my Austin experience, but feel free to extrapolate to the rest of the state (with caution).

1. Say howdy. Boy, Texans are friendly. I’ve been ma’am-ed and miss-ed to death since I got here. People hold doors, say, “pardon me," "thank you," and "good morning,” and smile at you on the street. When I went back home for the Christmas holidays, Californians seemed downright rude. (They’re not, but Texans are some of the most blatantly nice, welcoming, and hospitable folks I’ve even met.)



2. Everything is bigger in Texas, especially the bugs. There are also many MORE bugs here than on the west coast. Worse, they come INTO YOUR HOME. Here’s a quick rundown of the ones I’ve seen in my house: roaches (several kinds, even if your kitchen is immaculate), earwigs, silverfish, centipedes, beetles, flies, mosquitoes, ants (three kinds), pillbugs, and spiders. Outside, we’ve got cicadas, giant wasps, fire ants…


3. Some of the stereotypes are true. Yes, Texas is all about cowboy boots, cacti, barbeque, high school football, pickup trucks, and the Texas drawl (among other things). I still have moments when I feel like I’m in a Hollywood backlot, surrounded by actors dressed up for a Western. But not all the stereotypes are fair. The biggest misconception? That Texas is a wasteland—a sandy, flat desert full of Republicans and oil wells. We have those things, sure, but we’ve got so much more! The Texas hill country is a gorgeous expanse of oak trees, craggy cliffs, caves, rivers and creeks, wildflowers, and wineries. East Texas is known for its piney woods. The Gulf Coast is home to bayous and beaches. Big Bend Park, in west Texas, is a stunning national park with mountains, desert, and the Rio Grande. (And we’re not ALL Republicans. Really.) Other things that are true, though unfortunate: everyone drives. The summers are very hot. The public transportation sucks. Meh. It’s a trade-off.


4. A quick note on the word “y’all.” If you move to Texas, you will start saying this word. A lot. Embrace it.


5. Austin is a bubble… but we’re still part of Texas. Austin is a great place to live, but it drives me nuts when people speak about this city as if it’s a completely isolated from the rest of the state. Really? Some of the things that best about this city just scream Texas! First off, Austin wouldn’t be Austin without two great things: the State Capitol and the University of Texas (hook ‘em). We’ve got 50,000 students (plus professors and staff), hundreds of lobbyists, lawyers, consultants, and legislative staffers… much of life in Austin revolves around these two institutions. The rest of the city’s culture is rooted in the Texas way of life, as well. Good food, enjoying life, being outside (and active), and embracing great music. People gravitate to this city because it brings together the best of Texas culture, and then we give it an Austin spin. Southern-texmex-Asian fusion? Why not. Two-stepping? Yes. Tons and tons of BBQ? Of course. Live Music Capital of the World? Heck yeah. Life is good here.


6. Grocery stores a plenty. I swear there are more grocery stores here than anywhere I’ve ever lived. Whole Foods is the obvious one. But we’ve also got HEB, Central Marker, Savers, Randalls, Sun Harvest, Wheatsville, Sprouts, Royal Blue, Farm-to-Market... I know Austin is a city of 800,000, but do we NEED this many grocery stores? (Sadly, we don’t have Trader Joe’s. Breaks my heart.)


7. Three major food groups: BBQ, texmex, and beer. These are the essential elements of the Texas diet. People have fierce loyalties to their favorite BBQ and texmex restaurants. I try to be an equal-opportunity consumer of texmex and barbeque, but I will admit that I have my favorites. (For the record… favorite texmex = Maudie’s. Favorite tacos = Taco Deli and Torchy’s. Favorite BBQ = Salt Lick, Rudy’s, and Pok-e-jo’s.) Beer goes with all of the above.


8. Hotter than hell. Well, not always, but damn, it gets hot in the summer. The joke is that we have three seasons: hot, hotter, pretty damn hot. There are three things I’ve noticed that make life waaaaaay easier during Texas summers, which last from May through September: air conditioning, swimming, and (I never thought I’d say this): styrofoam. My born-in-California self cringes at the idea of using Styrofoam, but wow, it keeps things cooler. Recycle, y'all.


9. Be prepared: the Texas essentials. Being outside is a way of life in Texas. Whether you’re on the lake, hiking in the greenbelt, at the pool, enjoying a concert in Zilker—it doesn’t matter. You need a few things to make the most of your experience. And it can’t hurt to keep a few of these in the trunk of my car.
   -- Koozie. It’s not a “kozy,” it’s a KOO-zee. In case you hadn’t heard, it gets warm here. Want your drink to stay cold? Bring a koozie. Add a cooler to the equation if you can.
   -- Camp chair. Essential for shows, picnicking, and staying comfy.
   -- Sundresses, sunscreen, and sunglasses. A given.
   -- Bug spray. See item on bugs, above.
   -- Towel. You never know when you might be going for a swim.
   -- A dog. Everyone in Austin has one.
   


10. Texas pride. Love it or get outta town. The love people feel for Texas is contagious. I find it difficult to believe that you could live in Austin and not think it’s one of the best cities in the world. I, for one, have only minimal patience for people who gripe and complain about Austin. Really? Then leave. Another sign that Texans are in love with their state? Texas-shaped everything. Cheese, cakes, buildings, pools, chips, belt buckles, earrings, ash trays, clocks… is there any product that can’t be improved by making it in the shape of Texas? We also LOVE our Texas beer (Shiner Bock, Lone Star, Live Oak, Independence, Saint Arnold, (512).

In short, this place is awesome. Don't move here! I want it all for myself.

My doggie

Okay, she's not really mine. But she's pretty much my favorite dog on earth.

Meet my neighbor's dog, CJ.

She loves hiking in the greenbelt and fetching plastic water bottles.

Oh, and dog treats from Whole Foods. A true Austin dog.

Austin City Limits

When I moved to Austin a year ago, I was hardly aware of the excitement (and chaos) of the ACL festival -- but I ended up moving into an apartment just down the street from its epicenter: Zilker Park.

ACL has been running for 9 years, and one memory that stands out from the October 2009 weekend (that I spent apartment hunting) is driving past the park and witnessing the aftermath of Austin's biggest party. In just three days, the lush, green, newly-sodded lawn at Zilker Park was transformed into an enormous mud pit, all thanks to the stomping feet of 70,000 music lovers and several days of rain.

It was a near scandal. News stories ran for days about the poor lawn, Austinites lamented over the state of their beloved park, and everyday on my way to work I would monitor the mud pit's status. Eventually, Zilker dried out and the concert promoters agreed to foot the $2 million cost to re-turf and improve drainage on the 46-acre "great lawn."

This year's festival rolled around and the lawn was in pristine condition. And of course, everyone eagerly awaited the weather forecast: would torrential rains create a muddy disaster like 2009? Would it be scorching hot and tranform the grass into a dust bowl like 2008?

As luck would have it, I was able to attend ACL in a year with weather that organizers called, "the best we've ever had." Concertgoers agreed. Cool evenings, beautiful sunny afternoons... just perfect.

In my opinion, the line-up wasn't as stellar as last year, but I wanted to check out the scene, 1) because my neighborhood was invaded for three straight days by thousands of people and their cars, and 2) it is one of those quintessential Austin experiences that makes you grateful to live in this wonderful Texas town.

My friend, W, used to be active in the music scene and has some nice connections, and she was kind enough to share a VIP wristband with yours truly. This got us backstage access to some (not all) of the stages, which meant getting a seat at Martin Sexton. Here we are, enjoying the music:


A few snapshots of the the scene, including Norah Jones on one of the seven stages set up in the park.


After Martin and Norah, we scrambled over to the Budweiser Stage where The Eagles were scheduled to perform. We were on the fence about staying to watch -- it was 7pm, and their set was supposed to last from 8-10pm. And honestly, we thought, "The Eagles... eh."

We ended up taking the plunge and staying for the evening's headliner, even after getting squeezed into the VIP "bull pen" (next to the soundboard -- good; no seats -- bad) and being told that if we came in, we weren't allowed to leave until the performance was over. We agreed.

Turns out The Eagles were awesome. They sounded AMAZING -- tight harmonies, insane guitar solos, and a bunch of classics that made us say, "oh, that's an Eagles song!" You'd have been hard pressed to find a person in the crowd who didn't enjoy that show.


After The Eagles, we used our wristbands one last time to get access to the Artists' Lounge. Free booze, restrooms with A/C, and places to sit. Not too shabby.



'Til next year...

Best deals in Austin

Zilker Park Boat Rentals: $10 for two hours in a kayak or canoe (with coupon). I'm partial to the ocean kayak myself. My friend's lab, CJ, would agree.

Barton Springs Pool: $3 for all-day admission to the fountain of youth (and the best people-watching in Austin).

Jim Jim's Water Ice: $1.50 for a "tiny" size cup.

Black Swan Yoga: $10-15 donation for amazing classes.

Bicycle Sport Shop: $30 for a half-day on a Specialized Stumpjumper 29er mountain bike.

I love the weekend.

To Market, To Market

Where: Austin Farmer's Market (Austin)
When: Saturday, 11am

Purchased:

Piping hot pork & tomatillo tamale from the Gardener's Feast

Basil, lime, and pellegrino agua fresca

Zucchini, heirloom & grape tomatoes, a giant bunch of basil, & a mini watermelon from Johnson's Backyard Garden (Austin, TX).

Wish list (next week, maybe?):

A pretty little fig tree from Specialized Plant Sales (La Grange, TX)

Herb pots from the Herb Shack (Wimberely, TX)

Goat cheese from Maid in the Shade (Rosanky, TX)

Coffee cups from Austin Clay

CSA box from Johnson's Backyard Garden?

Summer. Is. Here.

I know summer doesn't officially start until June 21st.

But as far as I'm concerned, it has arrived.

Runner's delight

Where did the last month go? Seems like it just flew by...

There's lots going on, but occupying a good chunk of my time is my training. I'm running the Austin (Half) Marathon on February 14th!


My friend from San Francisco, "S", is coming to run the half marathon with me! I'm looking forward to showing off Austin and having some one to join me in the challenge. (She ran a half marathon in the Bay Area today, by the way, and is doing another one next week with me. No sweat. Amazing.)

Which brings me to one of my favorite things about Austin -- the hike & bike trails.

There are quite a few in Austin, but my favorite is the one that circles Town Lake (aka Lady Bird Lake) and borders Zilker Park and downtown. It's beautiful, free, and always full of friendly joggers, families, strollers, and bicycles. (Honestly, with the pedestrian volume, there isn't much room for the bikes, and I wouldn't recommend it as a bike path.)

You can drive to one of several parking lots situated just off the trail (near MoPac, Austin HS, S. Lamar St., S. 1st St.), but from my house, there are endless mileage possibilities. Two, four, ten miles, all a stone's throw from my front door. Glorious.


I came across a list of "runner's commandments," today, and several got a nod and a laugh from this newbie runner. Here are a few of my favorites:

1. Don’t be a whiner. Nobody likes a whiner, not even other whiners.
This aligns pretty nicely with my competitive cycling rules, too. Hamstrings sore? Feeling tired? Six miles too far? Path too crowded? Quit yer whinin'.

2. Walking out the door is often the toughest part of a run.
AMEN.

9. Don’t compare yourself to other runners.
By far, one of my biggest challenges. When I see runners who are faster, sleeker, or wearing cooler gear than I am, I tend to get jealous. When I see runners who are slower or wearing cotton (scoff), I get judgy. That's GOTTA stop. I run for ME, not anyone else.

10. All runners are equal, some are just faster than others.
As if I didn't think otherwise! Oh, yeah... see above.

11. Keep in mind that the later in the day it gets, the more likely it is that you won’t run.
All I can do is burst out laughing when I read this. Who has been on the treadmill at the gym at 11pm at night? Guilty.

16. A bad day of running still beats a good day at work.
Well, I don't know about that. A good day at work can be pretty damn amazing. But so can any run after a bad day at work.

19. Don’t always run alone.
Working on it. I swear. Anyone know of a good (slowish) running group in town?

24. Races aren’t just for those who can run fast.
Case in point.

52. Running is simple. Don’t make it complicated.
Indeed, one of my favorite things about this sport.

Wish me luck next week. 13.1 miles feels like an awfully long run...

Grocery shopping? Or friend shopping?

Central Market. This popular Austin grocery store chain is home to a huge variety of organic and conventional produce and amazing food: pecan-crusted salmon, kuri squash, guacamole made to order, a huge salad bar and deli, Texas pralines, and gelato. The store also has an enormous wine selection, several coolers of cheese, a 34-variety olive bar, and...

...cart stealers?

I was wandering aimlessly around the produce section, trying to figure out whether I should buy the .79 per bunch cilantro from Colorado or the .99 organic cilantro from California, and slowly crossing items off my list. I'd just bagged (and price tagged) some jalapenos, when I turned around and... MY CART WAS GONE.

Dang! 20 minutes of hard work, navigating that huge produce section, and my spinach, arugula, bell peppers, carrots, and garlic had disappeared.

Quickly, I scanned the carts around me for my cherry tomatoes which, in their bright red netting, could serve as a beacon. I spotted a woman near the lettuce section pushing a cart that looked a lot like mine.

"Excuse me, I think you might have..." Then I spotted mushrooms. No. This couldn't be my cart. "Actually, sorry! Never mind..."

I told her I'd lost my cart, and she helped me scan the room again. Her friend quickly joined us to help in the search, and I joked about all the hard work that had gone into loading my cart as a Central Market first-timer.

It turns out, they were new, too! "J" has been here for a month and "A" has only been here a week! We all swapped our info and hope to connect soon. Of all the places to meet people -- a grocery store!

Then they turned back to their cart, ready to walk away, when what did I see but my cherry tomatoes! And my spinach, arugula, carrots... "That IS my cart!"

Cart stealers! Who knew they could be such nice people?

Moving to Austin: 101

I'll post a little bit about my first week here, not beause finding a place to live and spending over six hours at IKEA is something I want to re-live, but because I think I might be able to connect with someone via Google or the blogsphere who has the do the same thing I did -- pick up and move to Austin, Texas!

Welcome to "Moving to Austin 101." As people like to say, "I wasn't born here, but I got here as soon as I could."


I think this process generally applies to ALL cities, but there are a few things Austin-specific that might assist the newcomer:


How do I find an apartment?
Use an apartment locating service, especially if you're short on time. I used Greenlight Locating and was pleased with the experience.

Basically, you feed them your preferences: neighborhood, price, amenities, and anything else you can imagine. For free, an agent will drive you all around town to show you apartments.

Use Craigslist. Sparingly. It's full of stuff the apartment locators have on file already -- but, you can send the links to your agent to give them an idea of what you'd like, AND they'll contact the property and give you a tour.

Coming from California, and having always done my own footwork in findng a place, all of this was a totally foreign concept to me. Why would someone want to drive me (picky 'ol me) around in a car all day, showing me properties? The answer, of course: $$$. The locators get paid a commission by the apartment complex you end up choosing. The big benefit, then, of spending some time on Craiglist, is to hunt down places not managed by private companies, but by landlords.

The other strategy? Cruise around neighborhoods, looking for FOR RENT signs. There are lots -- but it takes more time to set it all up yourself. Given all of this, make sure you find a place you like -- don't feel pressured by the locator or apartment staff (beware the "look and lease" same day discounts) to sign a contract right away. There are some gnarly apartments out there, and there are some great finds, too!

Update (10/30/13): Apartment locators are great when you are unfamiliar with a city, but Craigslist is an excellent resource -- just be smart about it. Avoid listings that are too good to be true, and follow-up on promising listings right away!


What neighborhood should I live in?
There are two schools of thought, as I quickly learned from the locals. The epic battle of 

North Austin vs. South Austin.

Things I heard about the North:
"Ooh, they're really stuffy up there." / "I don't really go to bars or shows that often, but the drive isn't very long to South Austin when I want to. They have a TGI Friday's. Oh, and my apartment complex has a gate, so it's safe." / "You can walk around by yourself at night and not worry." / "It's not really that far from South Austin. There are a lot of nice places." / "Traffic is horrible."

Things I heard about the South:
"You have to be careful about which neighborhood you live in." / "It's near EVERYTHING." / "I wouldn't live anywhere but South Austin." / "I'd do anything to move there, but I can't afford it right now." / "South Congress, Lamar, Town Lake, downtown... it's all great." / "Traffic is horrible."

Okay, so traffic is horrible no matter where you live.

The map above shows the general areas recommended to me: stay north of I-290/I-71/Ben White Blvd. and west of I-35. If you go north of Parmer Lane, you're starting to edge out of the main city area.

Oh, and there's one place you probably shouldn't live (unless you're going to school there): near the UT campus. Unless you really, really miss your college days.

I decided on South Austin, for a few reasons:
Yes, it is near everything! Popular clubs and local restaurants, South Congress restaurants and shops (aka Hipsterville), the airstream trailer cafes, Town Lake, lululemon athletica yoga store, the flagship Whole Foods, two farmers markets, Zilker Park and Barton Springs Pool. It's somewhat walkable and bikeable. I'm a $5 cab ride from downtown. I'm just five minutes from the freeway that takes me to work.

Does the north have anything to offer? Absolutely! But my overall impression was that if I chose a place in the north, I'd be more car-dependent and more likely to visit a chain restaurant/big box store. And I'd need to drive to downtown more or less everytime I wanted to see a live show or visit Barton Springs or lululemon or Central Market. I could be wrong, but so far I'm extremely happy with my place and my neighborhood.

There are many lovely neighborhoods in Austin (well over 50) and zillions of apartment complexes (over 700 to be exact), and tons of apartment locating agencies. If you have the time, look at lots of places 'til you find one that feels right. Oh, and one rule of thumb: the farther away the aparment is from downtown, the cheaper it will be.

Update (10/30/13): I loved my South Austin apartment, but by the the time I left Austin, I'd learned that there is more to the city than north vs. south. I also lived on the east side (near Airport Blvd. and MLK) and five minutes from campus. The east side is up-and-coming and rapidly gentrifying. I think my apartment locator was skeptical of the east side because some consider the area to be "less safe" (a veiled admonition that the area is home to a large percent of the city's people of color -- more on the history of the city's racial divide here).  Anyone who has ever lived in an urban city will not be uncomfortable on the east side; in fact, I found the diversity and sense of community to be much stronger than any other neighborhoods in Austin. Give the east side a good look, for sure. 

When should I move to Austin?
When it's not hot and humid! October through March is a good bet. The peak moving time is August, when I'm told students (and seemingly everyone else) do the annual Austin shuffe.


How far should I live from my job? How bad IS the commute?
Ah, yes, the only downside to living in the South and working in the North! Yes, I have a "long" commute. Twenty minutes in the morning, and 30-60 minutes in the evening. (But even now, after a couple weeks of commuting, I kind of want to say, "really, Texans? Suck it up. Haven't you ever been to California?" People traveling 101 on a weekend or I-80 to or from SF on a weekday will catch my drift.) If you can't handle driving, yes, live close to your job! It you don't mind, it's worth the trade off.

What should I do while I'm looking for an apartment?

• Stay with a friend!
• Priceline a hotel (my mom and I stayed at the Residence Inn for five nights for only $45 a night!)

Either way, give yourself as much time as possible and find somewhere affordable.


Should I bring a car? Any funny Texas business with the title and the DMV?

Yes, yes, yes! It's a car-centric town, and I'm still not sure how I'd survive without one. Per Texas law, you have to register your car in the state within 30 days, and get a driver's license within 90. When I arrived with Bettina the Wonder Corolla, my mom and I had to (in this order)...

• Get 'er insured. We went with State Farm.
• Get 'er inspected. Jiffy Lube (and many other mechanics) can do this in about 10-20 minutes, for a fee of $30 (pass or fail). You must show proof of insurance to get the car inspected!
• Get the title transferred. In Texas, the business of titles and registration has been privatized. It's much speedier to go through one of these private businesses than through the state (which also offers the service). At Fry's Auto Titles, for $130 in Texas State fees and $35 in private fees, we transferred the title from my dad to me, got our registration sticker, and (on the spot!) two new license plates. Wowzer.
• Get 'er registered and slap on some plates. See above (yes, my plates had numbers, but I edited them out because this blog is public).
• Get your license. Go to DPS (Dept. of Public Safety, aka the DMV), bring all the necessary documents, and get a license.

Where should I get...?
Furniture and housewares:

• On a budget? Check out IKEA, Target, Costco or Hobby Lobby. Craigslist, too!
  IKEA delivers to any Austin address for just $50!!
• Splurge: Visit one of these spiffy stores.

Internet:

• On a budget? Too bad. Time Warner Cable or AT&T are your only options. Grande is local, but serves limited areas.

Groceries:

• On a budget? HEB! Food prices are soooo much lower here than in California.
• Splurge: Oh, wait, did I said food prices were lower? Definitely not at Whole Foods. Or Central Market.

What the heck am I thinking, moving to Austin, Texas?
Don't worry -- you've chosen a fantastic city.

More soon!